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Tuesday, December 31, 2013

DIY Drafting Board

DIY Drafting Board

An adjustable drafting board is not just for people drafting up plans for a house, but anyone trying to draw a design for a project that requires precise horizontal and vertical lines and accurate measurements. It also is good for drawing tasks that requires a smooth, stable surface. For people painting, it allows for angle adjustments. Building a drafting board that is adjustable and fits on a table top requires only a few materials, some basic woodworking tools, and moderate woodworking skills.

Instructions

Cutting the Components

    1

    Place the plywood on the panel cutting sled on the table saw with a 25-inch finished edge against the fence of the sled. Push the sled forward to trim the 27-inch side to make it perpendicular to the first side

    2

    Turn the plywood over keeping the same edge against the fence of the sled. Trim this third side so it is also perpendicular.

    3

    Measure 1 1/8 inches in from the edge and mark it. Slide the plywood panel over to align the mark with the edge of the sled to cut a 1-inch board. Repeat this to make three more.

    4

    Keep the plywood in the same position and measure from the far edge across 20 inches and mark it. Align the mark with the cutting edge of the sled and make the cut .

    5

    Turn the board a quarter turn so the newest cut edge is against the fence. Measure 26 inches across from the far side. Align the mark with the sled cutting edge and make the cut. The resulting panel is a 20-by-26-inch rectangle.

    6

    Square up the 1/4-inch plywood for the bottom so it is also 20 by 26 inches.

    7

    Cut the four 1-inch boards so that two are 25 inches and two are 15 inches. Cut two 11-inch boards out of the left-over pieces.

    8

    Mark 10 quarter-inch-wide grooves in one of the 15-inch pieces. Start 1 inch in from the end. Space them at 1-inch intervals. Each groove should be a quarter-of-an-inch deep. Exactly duplicate the grooves on the second 15-inch piece.

    9

    Put the board on the sled against the fence so the marks are showing. Lower the blade to make the groove a quarter inch deep. Align the first mark with the cutting edge and cut the groove. Move the board slightly back so the second mark aligns with the outside of the blade and finish cutting the groove. Repeat for the rest of the grooves.

Assembly

    10

    Apply adhesive to one side of each of the two 25-inch boards and glue them together. Apply adhesive to one surface and center it along the 26-inch edge of the 1/4-inch panel. Pre-drill five screw holes equal spaced and attach with 1 1/4 inch screws.

    11

    Put adhesive on the underside of the two grooved boards and place them half an inch in from the 20 inch sides. Position so there is maximum adjustment for elevating the drawing panel. Pre-drill four holes and screw them in with 5/8-inch screws.

    12

    Attach the three 2-inch hinges equally spaced along the 26-inch side on the underside of the drawing panel. Lay the hinged side up and align the panel with the thicker side of the base panel and attach the hinges.

    13

    Screw 1-inch hinges to one end of the flat surfaces of each 11-inch piece. Open the hinges flat and butt the boards up against the opposite edge of the drawing panel one half inch in from the side edges. Attach the hinges.

    14

    Sand lightly and finish the wood with multiple layers of acrylic.

How to Draw a Table in Microsoft Word 2003

Word processing programs have come a long way from the days when they essentially served as glorified typewriters. As technology has grown, more features have been added to make such programs increasingly useful to users. Modern day word processors even allow users to create tables inside of their documents; here's how to do it.

Instructions

    1

    Access the table drawing menu. Scroll to the Table tab on the command bar and select Draw Table. The cursor will turn into a pencil icon.

    2

    Draw the table. Use the pencil icon to draw a table by left-clicking and holding as you drag the cursor to create the desired table. Release the mouse button once you have drawn the table.

    3

    Re-size the table. Grab the lower right corner of the table by hovering the mouse cursor over it until a box appears. Then left-click and hold as you drag the table to the desired size.

    4

    Enter text into the table. To enter text in the table, left-click inside of the table and a text cursor will appear; enter the desired text.

    5

    Move the table. To move the table, left-click on the upper left corner and hold as you drag the table to the desired size.

How to Make a Drafting Board

How to Make a Drafting Board

As an architecture student, you will have to draft several buildings and structure throughout your college career. Having the perfect portable drafting board gives you the opportunity to begin drafting in one location and finish in another area. You will not only benefit from a good quality drafting board through your schooling, but well into your career. A great quality drafting board will also contain a handle, which is a great benefit when it comes to hanging your board when you're not using it. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Attach the self-healing drawing board cover to the plywood by applying self-adhesive cement to the top surface of the plywood and the back surface of the self-healing drawer board cover. Allow the cement to set for five minutes, then press the drawing board cover to the plywood. Line up the corners of the cover with the plywood to ensure a perfect fit.

    2

    Attach the drawer handle to the drawing board. Measure 18 inches in from each corner along the 40-inch edge. Drill a hole through both 18-inch marks.

    3

    Screw the drawer handle intro the board with the screwdriver. This will make it easier for you to carry the board from one location to another.

Monday, December 30, 2013

How to Convert Imperial to Metric

How to Convert Imperial to Metric

The imperial system of measurement is a standard of units formalized by the British government while the metric system was created by France and forms the basis for the International System of Units. Most of the world uses the metric system, but in the United States and other areas influenced by Britain, the imperial system continues to influence everyday measurements including those for cooking and distances. As a consequence, you may have to convert from imperial to metric units. All you need is a list of conversion factors.

Instructions

    1

    Find the unit you need to convert on an imperial-to-metric conversion chart. Conversion charts list the equivalent units in each system and the factors you need to convert them.

    2

    Confirm that the conversion factor is dimensionally appropriate. This means you cannot use a conversion factor for liters, which is a unit of volume, to convert inches to liters. For the basic units of length, volume and mass this is simple, but for more complicated units such as acceleration or pressure, you could accidentally use the wrong conversion factor.

    3

    Multiply the number of your imperial units by their metric measurement per unit. For example, 1 inch is equal to 2.54 centimeters. Therefore, to convert 12 inches to centimeters, multiply 12 inches by 2.54 centimeters per inch to get 30.48 centimeters.

Sunday, December 29, 2013

Backyard Furniture Ideas

Backyard Furniture Ideas

Backyard living has become an extension of indoor comfort with the choices available for outdoor furniture. Colorful cushions are made in acrylic fabrics that are resistant to mold and rot with polyester filling that drains water and dries quickly. Outdoor lighting now has weather-proof shades and all-weather bulbs. A portable fire pit adds to the ambiance of the time spent in your comfortable backyard setting. Does this Spark an idea?

Plastic

    Polyresin is the most common plastic used for outdoor furniture, according to the Plastic Patio Furniture website. It is made from a combination of resin compounds and polyester fibers, giving it strength and durability. It is inexpensive, available in a variety of styles and colors, resistant to moisture, ultraviolet rays, rot and insects, and cleans with a mild soap and water. Outdoor furniture made from recycled plastic is also available. It is not as durable as polyresin but is resistant to moisture, rot and insects. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for preparation and use.

Metal

    Two metals for outdoor furniture use are aluminum and wrought iron. Aluminum is lightweight and resistant to rust, according to the Outdoor Furniture Site. Portable folding outdoor furniture is made from molded hollow aluminum for easy transportation. More standard aluminum outdoor furniture is made using a cast construction of solid aluminum, making it more sturdy and durable. Wrought iron outdoor furniture is a standard favorite, states the HGTV website, and is now made with a powder coated finish instead of paint, making it weather resistant with little maintenance. Wrought iron outdoor furniture is available in a variety of styles.

Wood

    Cedar and teak are two woods used for outdoor furniture. Cedar furniture is naturally resistant to rot, fungus and insects, according to the Outdoor Furniture Site. It can be left natural, painted or stained. Cedar furniture is available in a basic country style with plain clean lines. Use mild soap solution to clean unfinished cedar furniture, and it will last up to 10 years, explains the website.

    Teak furniture is exceptionally dense and durable, resistant to decay and rot. It may be cleaned with mild soap and water, but is care free and will last "forever," according to the HGTV website. Teak furniture is available in a timeless look.

Wicker

    Two substances used to make wicker outdoor furniture are real wicker and resin wicker. Real wicker is made from woven strands of rattan or bamboo, states the Outdoor Furniture site. These materials do not hold up well to moisture or weather and can become unglued, unraveled, peeled or flaked if left out in the elements. Resin wicker is made of woven resin strips that resist weather, rot and insects. Colored dyes may be added to the basic resin material to make the furniture available in popular shades. Clean resin wicker furniture with mild soap and water.

Saturday, December 28, 2013

How to Build a Tile Patio Table

How to Build a Tile Patio Table

One way to update patio furniture is to add a tile table. This is a project that you can do by building a tile tabletop that you can add to an existing patio table. Before starting the project, you'll first have to find an old patio table. Once that's accomplished, it's just a matter of obtaining the necessary tools and materials. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Measure the diameter of the patio table with the tape measure. The ideal width of the table will be 26 to 30 inches.

    2

    Draw two 30-inch circles on the -inch piece of plywood with the pencil. Cut around the pencil marks with the jigsaw. This will give you two round discs.

    3

    Lay a piece of cardboard over the cut pieces of plywood and cut a template that matches the size of the tabletop with the scissors.

    4

    Apply construction adhesive to the top of each of the round discs. Lay the two pieces together and align the edges. Secure the discs with two clamps and wait at least six hours for the construction adhesive to dry. Remove the clamps and sand the edges of the discs with the sandpaper.

    5

    Apply two coats of the waterproof membrane to the wood disc with the roller. Wait at least 24 hours for the membrane to dry.

    6

    Draw a design on the cardboard cutout with the pencil as a guideline for the tile. A design can consist of two intersecting lines or concentric circles.

    7

    Set the wood disc on a table or bench. Apply thinset on the back of a 1-inch edge tile with the trowel and set it against the edge of the disc. Apply thinset to additional tile and place them around the edge of the disc. Let the thinset dry for at least 24 hours.

    8

    Transfer the design from the cardboard cutout to the wood disc with the felt tip marker. Draw two intersecting lines on the wood disc, using the felt tip marker and the straight edge. This will create four quadrants on the disc.

    9

    Apply thinset to one quadrant with the trowel. Set the tile in place on the thinset. Apply thinset to one quadrant at a time and then lay the tile. Wait 12 hours for the thinset to dry.

    10

    Apply the grout to the tile joints with the grout float. Wait at least two hours for the grout to set and then remove any excess from the tile with a damp sponge.

    11

    Set the completed tiled wood disc on top of the patio table. Secure the tiled wood disc to the patio table with screws, using the power drill.

Friday, December 27, 2013

How to Build Your own Drafting Table

The words drafting table or drawing board bring to mind an image of a desk with a non-movable flat or movable vertical top. Making a homemade drafting table may seem like a daunting task, but it doesn't have to be. Follow these quick steps to quickly make a drafting table that you can proudly display and use. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Build a Flat-Top Only Drafting Table

    1

    Buy two sawhorses of the same size. Also, purchase a lightweight piece of square formaldehyde-free plywood or fiberboard (MDF) slightly wider than the width of your sawhorse. The wood should be no less than 1/2-inch thick and no more than 3/4-inch thick as extremely thin plywood can warp over time and extremely thick, heavy-weighted plywood may cause the desk to collapse. Buy one 2-foot (at least) long, 2-inch wide piece of untreated oak molding.

    2

    Set up your two sawhorses and place your piece of plywood or MDF on top of the sawhorse beams. Re-adjust the plywood and beams until the "drafting table" not only looks the way you want it to, but also flat and stable as verified with your level.

    3

    Gauge the location of the sawhorse beam (width and length) beneath your sheet and mark a spot 2 inches in from the left and right sides in line with the center of the beam.

    4

    Place a heavy object on the plywood to hold the top in place and drill a hole (5/16th inch or wider) through each spot completely through the beam.

    5

    Thread the bolts through the holes, securely fasten with washers and nuts under the beam and paint your new collapsible flat-top only drafting table in the color of your choice.

Build a Movable Top Table

    6

    Buy one large-beamed, heavy-weighted sawhorse. Also purchase a lightweight piece of square formaldehyde-free plywood or fiberboard (MDF) and molding as directed in Step 1 of Section 1.

    7

    Cut your piece of molding to the length of your plywood or MDF and screw it securely onto the back middle part of the top. Affix one of the following types of hinges to just past center width of the sawhorse beam: flush or self-closing. If using small hinges, affix two to three evenly spaces hinges along the beam.

    8

    Hold your top vertical and centered to the sawhorse with the molding lying flush on the top of the beam. Screw the hinge mounting plates(s) to the bottom edge of the molding. Depending on the type of hinge that you used your desktop can now rest flat against the top of the sawhorse to create flat-top drafting table or sit vertically at an angle to the sawhorse.

    9

    Paint your new mobile and movable top drafting table. Add polyurethane furniture bumpers or doorstops to the back of your top in line with the legs of the sawhorse to stop the top from banging against the leg or from suffering cosmetic damage over time.

How to Draw a Picnic Table

Modern picnic tables are typically made of chemically treated pine or redwood pieces that are connected and reinforced with steel bolts and struts. Rectangular tables seat four to six people and are usually about 8 feet long, 2.5 feet high and 5 feet wide. The most common shapes for picnic tables are rectangles and circles, although more exotic designs aren't unheard of.

Instructions

    1

    Turn a standard sheet of drawing paper (8.5 inches by 11 inches) so that the length runs left to right. Draw the first of two 3-inch vertical line segments to begin the framework. Position the segment midway between the top and bottom of the paper and about 1.5 inches from the paper's right edge (see Resources).

    2

    Draw another 3-inch vertical line segment to the left of the first one. Locate the new segment's top endpoint as follows: Position your pencil point 4 inches to the left of the top endpoint of Step 1's line segment. Move your pencil tip 2 inches higher and plot the top endpoint of the new segment. Draw directly down from that top endpoint for 3 inches to complete the second vertical segment. Draw two new line segments--one connecting the top endpoints of the two vertical segments, the other connecting the bottom endpoints of the vertical segments.

    You'll now see a parallelogram shaped like the one in the "Parallelogram" Resources link. The parallelogram you just completed will aid in placing the table's parts.

    3

    Draw two reference lines--the first will connect the midpoints of the parallelogram's left and right sides (These sides are the two vertical segments you drew earlier). The second connects the midpoints of the parallelogram's top and bottom line.

    4

    Form the seat support by drawing a second edge parallel to and slightly below your first reference line. Draw two vertical lines connecting this new edge's left and right points with the corresponding points on the reference line.

    5

    Draw the seats. Sketch ovals atop both left and right ends of the seat support. The ovals should be about 1/2 inch wide and 1/8 inch high.

    6

    Sketch the legs. Extend a line from the parallelogram's bottom right corner to the parallelogram's top line segment, 1/4 of the length of the top segment, measured from its right endpoint. Make the left leg with the corresponding points on the parallelogram's left side. Ensure that the top points of both legs are an equal distance from the parallelogram's vertical reference line.

    7

    Create the tabletop by drawing a line segment parallel to--and 1/8 of an inch under--the parallelogram's top line segment. Connect the new line segment's left endpoint to the left endpoint of the parallelogram's top line segment. Connect the new segment's right endpoint to the right endpoint of the parallelogram's top line segment. This completes the tabletop and the table's cross-section. You'll now duplicate this section, then connect the two sections to complete the table.

    8

    Make a duplicate of the completed cross-section on the same page as the cross section: Trace onto a new page the cross section you completed in Step 7, then trace the image you just traced back onto your original page, ensuring that the top left point of the new parallelogram is 4 inches left of and 1.5 inches below the top left point of the original parallelogram.

    9

    Connect the left and right ends of the tabletop and the left and right ends of both seats between the original and the new parallelogram. Widen the leg lines and erase all guidelines to complete your picnic table. Erase any parts of the drawing that are hidden by the tabletop.

Thursday, December 26, 2013

Teaching Metric Conversions to Sixth-Graders

Teaching Metric Conversions to Sixth-Graders

According to Eric Carlson from the Yale-New Haven Teachers Institute, sixth-graders should have a comprehensive understanding of the metric system by the end of the school year. They should be able to measure objects using the appropriate metric units and know how to quickly convert between them. Even though metric conversions require nothing more than basic multiplication and division skills, American students can still have a hard time grasping them because they are used to using the standard system in their day-to-day lives.

Explain Metrics

    Before you jump straight into metric conversions, give your students a concise introduction to the metric system. Explain the purpose of the metric system and give them useful examples of when they can use metrics in real-life situations. One good example is how we use liters to measure liquids. You can also show them how we incorporate centimeters and millimeters on our standard rulers.

Metric Chart

    Make a metric chart in class that the students can look at as a visual aid to help them understand how metrics are easily converted by powers of 10. For example, "10 millimeters = 1 centimeter, 10 centimeters = 1 decimeter, and so on...." Make separate charts for length, area, mass and volume.

Approximate Comparisons

    Use approximate comparisons to help your students associate metric measurements to ordinary things. For example, 1 kilometer is roughly the length of nine football fields, and 1 meter is half the length of the average door. This will help your students begin to recognize which units are appropriate for a given measurement. If your students know that a raisin is approximately 1 centimeter long, they'll know not to use meters when measuring something that is small like a raisin.

Conversions

    Have your students make their own metric rulers and start measuring objects in the classroom and at home. Once your students have a firm understanding of how the metric system works and can use metrics to make their own measurements, they are ready to begin conversions. Take down the metric charts and have your students begin to make conversions. Have them use their own measurements as the basis for their conversions. Start with simple conversions, such as millimeters to centimeters, and decimeters to centimeters, before moving on to more challenging conversions.

What Tools Are Used for Technical Drawings?

What Tools Are Used for Technical Drawings?

Inventors, engineers and architects use technical drawings to create master plans or blueprints that are used as working guides to completing projects. A February 2008 article in Smithsonian Magazine suggests that elementary technical drawings scratched into the walls were used by the architect who created the Parthenon at Athens, Greece.

Drafting Tables

    Draftsmen create technical drawings using a tilting table. Parallel rulers on each side of the drawing surface align the drawing paper and provide horizontal and vertical guides for drawing.

Rulers and Squares

    Using a T-square and clear plastic triangle, draftsmen create lines. Common triangles they use are an eight inch triangle with forty five and ninety degree sides and a ten inch triangle with 30- and 60-degree sides. Draftsmen measure dimensions with triangular shaped rulers that have different scales on each of three surfaces.

Curve Templates and Compasses

    Draftsmen create curves using irregular curve templates made of clear rigid plastic. They draw circles and portions of circles called arcs with an adjustable compass and calculate angles from 1 degree to 180 degrees with clear plastic protractors.

Lettering Guides

    Lettering templates guide the draftsman in the execution of uniform lettering throughout the drawing. As a matter of common practice most creators of technical drawings hand letter in personally developed styles that identify their work as clearly as fingerprints.

Drawing Pencils

    Most draftsmen use sharp 2H and 4H pencils for drawing. Pencils may be wooden or mechanical pencils with replaceable leads. They utilize erasing shields and soft gum or nylon erasers to make corrections.

Inking Pens

    Technical drawings created in pencil are usually over-traced with ink to render durable final drawings. Early inking pens consisted of a mechanical device with an adjustable nib. Modern disposable inking pens have built in ink reservoirs and are available in many point widths.

Drafting Machines

    Early drafting machines date back to Italy in 1913. Modern drafting machines combine horizontal and vertical rulers or scales and a protractor head that allows adjustment of the rulers to required angles for drawing. The device is permanently attached to the drawing board and uses a pair of connected arms to move freely around the drawing surface.

CAD: Computer Aided Design

    Drawings and designs using computer software drastically reduce hand and machine drafting, especially in the professional sectors. Lower drawing cost and greater degrees of accuracy dictate increasing use of CAD as a primary tool for creating technical drawings. Large computer screens for creating designs and plotters for printing large technical drawings are replacing traditional technical drawing tools. Colleges and trade schools offer CAD training to a growing number of specializing technicians who are replacing conventional draftsmen in the drafting room.

Wednesday, December 25, 2013

Help on the Metric System

Help on the Metric System

Learning the metric system of measurement is a piece of cake with the right tools. The English system has an incredible array of conversion factors, and no two are alike. The metric system, on the other hand, uses a standard set of prefixes to indicate relationships between units. This simplifies matters immensely.

Metric System Basics

    The metric system is based on standard units for different kinds of measurement. Common units are the meter (for linear measure), the liter (volume), and the gram (weight). Standard prefixes indicate the multiple or fraction of the base unit in terms of powers of 10.

Metric System and the Decimal System

    It is important to understand that the metric system is based on the same decimal system that allows us to use place value with numbers. Metric measurements use the same digits, no matter what size of units are the focus. For example, an item that measures five (5) meters also measures five hundred (500) centimeters and five thousandths (.005) of a kilometer. The digit "5" does not change. The change involves the decimal point and is accomplished by multiplying or dividing the measurement by the correct factor of 10. This makes conversion between units of various sizes simply a matter of moving the decimal point the correct number of places in the correct direction.

Metric System Prefixes

    The heart of the metric system is the system of prefixes that indicate the relative size of the fractions and multiples of the base units. The same prefixes are used for all of the metric measurements, whether for length, volume, or weight. They have the same relationship no matter which base unit is being used.

    The prefixes in common usage to indicate fractional parts of the base units include deci-, centi-, and milli-. Deci- indicates that the base unit is divided into ten pieces (1/10ths) or moving the decimal point one place to the left. The centi- prefix indicates division into hundredths (two places to the left), and the milli- prefix indicates division into thousandths (three places to the left). In science, the prefix micro- indicates a millionth and nano- indicates a billionth.

    Other prefixes indicate larger measurements than the base unit. Deca- indicates the base unit is multiplied by a factor of ten (moving the decimal point one place to the right). Hecto- indicates a multiplier of one hundred (two places to the right), and kilo- indicates a multiplier of one thousand (three places to the right). Other prefixes, such as mega- and tera- indicate even larger multipliers commonly used in scientific fields.

Learn to Use the Metric System

    A handy tutorial for multiplying and dividing by 10s can be found at the Open University at openlearn.open.ac.uk/mod/resource/view.php?id=289639.

    The prefixes must be memorized in order of their relative sizes. One way to do this, according to R.S. Schaeffer, math teacher at Kutztown University in Pennsylvania, is through the use of mnemonics. He recommends putting the units in order of size and creating a sentence with words beginning with the same letters, such as "King Henry Died by Drinking Chocolate Milk" which stands for kilo-, hecto-, deca-, base, deci-, centi-, and milli-.

DIY Lawn Furniture

DIY Lawn Furniture

Often outdoor spaces are forgotten when design money is budgeted, and you find yourself with a beautifully appointed home with a bare backyard. You dont have to forsake your backyard, however, even if your decorating budget is barely in the black. Craft a full set of matching outdoor furniture for less than the cost of one piece of store-bought furniture. Save money and conserve resources by using construction-site discards and dollar-store finds. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Cable Spool Stool

    1

    Sand the surfaces of your cable spool, removing any splinters and rough edges. Paint the spool and allow to the paint to dry completely before applying a second coat of paint.

    2

    Lay your batting over the top of the spool and cut around the spools round top. Lay your exterior fabric over the top of the batting and cut around the edge of the spools top, leaving a 5-inch border of extra fabric.

    3

    Turn the spool over onto its top, holding the batting and fabric onto it so that it sits directly over the center of the batting and fabric. Pull the fabric over to the underside of the spools top edge and staple in one place.

    4

    Find the opposite side from that staple and pull the fabric on that side over and staple; you now have two staples on opposite sides underneath the spool top. Find the spots between the two staples and staple fabric in those two spots underneath the spool, first pulling the fabric taut.

    5

    Staple around the edge, underneath the top, always stapling on the opposite side of the last place you stapled and remembering to pull the fabric taut but not tight.

Pallet Sectional Seating

    6

    Sand your pallets thoroughly to remove any splintered areas or ragged edges. Paint your pallets to match or complement your stool.

    7

    Place two of your pallets flat in an L formation, with one placed perpendicular to the other, at the end of the long edge of the pallet.

    8

    Place the other two pallets on top of the first pallets, matching the edges.

    9

    Lay your outdoor bench cushions over the pallets tops to finish the outdoor sectional. Artfully place throw pillows around the sectional for effect.

Rope Trash Can Table

    10

    Turn the trash can onto its opening. Cover the exposed bottom of the trash can with a generous helping of construction glue. Set the tabletop on the glue, centering it onto the bottom of the trashcan. Allow your glue to completely dry before proceeding.

    11

    Warm up your hot glue gun. Hot glue around the perimeter of the base of your trash can, and then start wrapping the rope around your trash can bottom, covering the glue. Glue around the next exposed part of the trash can, and then add another layer of rope by wrapping the same length of rope around the trash can in another row.

    12

    Continue gluing and wrapping rope around the trash can until youve covered the entire trash can. Allow all the glue to dry before going forward.

    13

    Turn the table onto its top. Starting at the trashcan base, hot glue and attach rope in a spiral until the underside of the table is covered with rope. Continue gluing and attaching onto the tabletop, covering the edge of the table.

    14

    Turn the table onto its base. Continue gluing and attaching rope in a spiral, until you get to the center of the table. Cover your rope with several layers of clear spray coat to protect the rope and complete the project.

How to Solve Conversions in the Metric System

How to Solve Conversions in the Metric System

You might have learned how to use the metric system in school, but unless you make metric conversions and measurements often, it can be easy to forget how to calculate and convert between metric units. The metric system employs units of measurement that neatly convert into each other as factors of 10. Learning how to convert between metric units can be a useful skill to develop if you plan to travel to countries that use the metric system or if you come into contact with metric units in your daily life and work.

Instructions

Understanding Metric Basics

    1

    Learn how metric units fit into each other. Metric units divide and multiply into each other in powers of 10. Converting between metric units is often a matter of multiplying or dividing by 10, 100 or 1,000.

    2

    Become familiar with metric units and the value of each unit. Learn how long a meter is, how heavy a milligram is, and much one liter of liquid is.

    3

    Learn the correct equations to convert between metric units. Keep a list of conversion equations and try to memorize them.

Linear Measurements

    4

    Understand how millimeters, centimeters, meters and kilometers relate to each other. There are 10 millimeters in a centimeter, 100 centimeters in a meter and 1,000 meters in a kilometer.

    5

    Convert millimeters into centimeters using the equation (millimeters / 10 = centimeters). If there are 310 millimeters, the equation would be (310 mm / 10 = 31 cm).

    6

    Convert millimeters into meters using the equation (millimeters / 1,000 = meters). If there are 310 millimeters, the equation would be (310 mm / 1,000 = 0.31 m).

    7

    Convert millimeters into kilometers using the equation (millimeters / 1,000,000 = kilometers). If there are 310 millimeters, the equation would be (310 mm / 1,000,000 = 0.00031 km).

    8

    Convert centimeters into millimeters using the equation (centimeters x 10 = millimeters). If there are 31 centimeters, the equation would be (31 cm x 10 = 310 mm).

    9

    Convert centimeters into meters using the equation (centimeters / 100 = meters). If there are 31 centimeters, the equation would be (31 cm / 100 = .31 m).

    10

    Convert centimeters into kilometers using the equation (centimeters / 100,000 = kilometers). If there are 31 centimeters, the equation would be (31 cm / 100,000 = 0.00031 km).

    11

    Convert meters into millimeters using the equation (meters x 1,000 = millimeters). If there are 5 meters, the equation would be (5 m x 1,000 = 5,000 mm).

    12

    Convert meters into centimeters using the equation (meters x 100 = centimeters). If there are 5 meters, the equation would be (5 m x 100 = 500 cm).

    13

    Convert meters into kilometers using the equation (meters / 1,000 = kilometers). If there are 5 meters, the equation would be (5 m / 1,000 = 0.005 km).

    14

    Convert kilometers into millimeters using the equation (kilometers x 1,000,000 = millimeters). If there are 2.5 kilometers, the equation would be (2.5 km x 1,000,000 = 2,500,000 mm).

    15

    Convert kilometers into centimeters using the equation (kilometers x 100,000 = centimeters). If there are 2.5 kilometers, the equation would be (2.5 km x 100,000 = 250,000 cm).

    16

    Convert kilometers into meters using the equation (kilometers x 1,000 = meters). If there are 2.5 kilometers, the equation would be (2.5 km x 1,000 = 2,500 meters).

Volume Measurements

    17

    Understand how milliliters and liters relate to each other. There are 1,000 milliliters in a liter and 0.001 liters in a milliliter.

    18

    Convert milliliters into liters using the equation (milliliters / 1,000 = liters). If there are 250 milliliters, the equation would be (250 ml / 1,000 = 0.25 l).

    19

    Convert liters into milliliters using the equation (liters x 1,000 = milliliters). If there are 2.3 liters, the equation would be (2.3 l x 1,000 = 2,300 ml).

Mass Measurements

    20

    Understand how milligrams, grams and kilograms relate to each other. There are 1,000 milligrams in a gram, 1,000 grams in a kilogram and 1,000,000 milligrams in a kilogram.

    21

    Convert milligrams into grams using the equation (milligrams / 1,000 = grams). If there are 363 milligrams, the equation would be (363 mg / 1,000 = 0.363 g).

    22

    Convert milligrams into kilograms using the equation (milligrams / 1,000,000 = kilograms). If there are 353 milligrams, the equation would be (363 mg / 1,000,000 = 0.000363 kg).

    23

    Convert grams into milligrams using the equation (grams x 1,000 = milligrams). If there are 24 grams, the equation would be (24 g x 1,000 = 24,000 mg).

    24

    Convert grams into kilograms using the equation (grams / 1,000 = kilograms). If there are 24 grams, the equation would be (24 g / 1,000 = 0.024 kg).

    25

    Convert kilograms into milligrams using the equation (kilograms x 1,000,000 = milligrams). If there are 2.6 kilograms, the equation would be (2.6 kg x 1,000,000 = 2,600,000 mg).

    26

    Convert kilograms into grams using the equation (kilograms x 1,000 = grams). If there are 2.6 kilograms, the equation would be (2.6 kg x 1,000 = 2,600 g).

Tuesday, December 24, 2013

How to Brighten Up a Brown Room

How to Brighten Up a Brown Room

Brown walls, carpets, chairs and sofas provide a neutral base to create an attractive living space. Unfortunately, the number of potential design options makes coordinating a neutral brown room seem overwhelming to a novice home decorator. Instead of hiring an interior designer, save your money and put it toward making your neutral brown room pop by introducing inexpensive design elements. From a new rug to throw pillows, there are several ways to brighten up a brown room. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Lay an accent rug into the center of the room. Choose a rug that incorporates the brown from the walls or furniture and also features more striking colors that can be used as an inspiration for the room.

    2

    Cover the furniture with accent pillows. Use colors found in the area rug to draw attention to the sofa and chairs. Line larger pillows along the back of the couch and scatter smaller pillows against them.

    3

    Hang bright artwork on the walls. Brown allows you to use almost any color in the room, so choose prints and paintings that feature bold, vibrant colors that stand out even more against the neutral backdrop.

    4

    Incorporate new pieces of furniture into the room that feature a vibrant color or bold print. For instance, place a brightly colored coffee table or ottoman on top of a throw rug. Reupholster an existing chair with fabric that complements your new artwork or throw pillows.

    5

    Paint one accent wall a deeper shade of brown. For instance, if the walls are beige, cover one wall with chocolate brown paint or wallpaper. Maintain a brown, neutral base by choosing stripped or monotone wallpaper.

How to Create a Table Out of an Old Door for Outdoor Dining

Constructing your own table using an old door can be both cost effective and green. The project can be completed with in a few hours and will bring a rustic ambiance to your patio. Once constructed the table can be painted and decorated to match an existing design scheme. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Cut boards to the appropriate size. The table will consist of four long aprons, which are the boards that connect to the legs for stabilization. Cut one of the 12-foot boards into two 68-inch boards. Cut the second 12-foot board into two 70-inch boards. To create the short aprons, cut one of the 8-foot boards into two 41-inch boards. To create the legs, cut four of the 8 foot-boards into eight 31 3/4-inch boards. For the center stretchers, cut two of the 8-foot boards into 62-inch boards. To create the end stretchers, cut the remaining 8 foot board into two 39 1/2-inch boards.

    2

    Construct the first leg. Glue the edge of one of the leg boards (31 3/4 inch) to the face of a second leg board. Drive as many finish nails as needed into the assembly to hold the pieces together while the glue dries. Create all four leg assemblies in the same manner.

    3

    Glue a leg assembly to the face of a short apron (41-inch board). The edge of the leg assembly should be flush with the end of the short apron and the end of the leg should be flush with the edges of the short apron. Screw the faces of the legs to the short apron to secure it in place. Repeat step 3 for each of the remaining legs to create the two sides of the table.

    4

    Screw two of the long aprons (68-inch boards) to the leg assemblies. The long aprons should sit flush against the short aprons.

    5

    Turn the table base over so that the bottoms of the legs face upward. Measure 12 inches from the edge of the leg toward the top of the table and mark it. Place the end stretchers at the 12 -inch mark running parallel to the short apron. Glue and then screw the stretchers in place. To secure the center stretcher, measure inward 20 inches from the left and from the right. Center the stretcher between the marks and screw it in place.

    6

    Flip the table base over to attach the door. Place glue around the top edges of the base. Lay the door on top of the base leaving an even overhang. The size of the overhang will depend on the size of the door; older doors will be slightly smaller. Nail the door into place with the finish nails.

    7

    Sand any rough edges or groves to complete the table.

Monday, December 23, 2013

Metric to Pound Conversion

The metric system is used in almost all countries of the world, with the most notable exception being the United States, which uses the U.S. Conventional System or the gravitational system of measurement. The metric system was invented by scientists during the French Revolution. This was the beginning of what was to become the International System of Units, or SI for short, a universal measurement system used by scientists. One advantage of the system is that, to convert units from one to another, you simply multiply them by factors of 10.

Kilograms to Pound

    A pound is equal to 0.45359237 kg. Another way to state the relationship between pounds and kilograms is 1 kg = 2.2046 lbs.

    If you know the number of kilograms, all you have to do to get pounds is to multiply that number by 2.2. For instance, 10 kg: 10 x 2.2 = 22 lbs.

    On the other hand, if you have pounds and need to get kilograms, you can divide by 2.2. For instance, 220 lbs: 220 2.2 = 100 kg.

    Of course, since 1 pound also equals .454 kg, another way to convert from pounds to kilograms is to multiply the number of pounds by .454. For instance, 220 lbs: 220 x .454 = 100 kg.

    It is important to keep in mind that we are rounding these conversion factors and results for ease. Thus, the conversions yield approximate results.

Grams to Pounds

    Since 1,000 g equals 1 kg, 1,000 g also equals 2.2046 lbs, but that's an awkward relationship to deal with when figuring out conversions. Instead, remembering that a pound equals .45359237 kg, you can figure out how many grams there are to a pound:

    Start with the equation 1 kg = 1,000 g.
    Multiply both sides by .45359237 to keep them equivalent.
    This results in the equation .45359237 kg = 453.59237 g.
    Thus, .45359237 kg = 453.59237 g = 1 lb.

    Now that you have this, employ the same procedures you used to convert pounds to kilograms to convert pounds to grams: multiply the number of pounds by 454 to get the approximate grams. You can divide the result by 1,000 to get kilograms. For instance,
    10 lbs: 10 x 454 = 4540 g.
    4540 1000 = 4.44 kg.

    To check our approximations, let's multiply 4.44 by 2.2 (remember, 1 kg equals 2.2 lbs, so if you have the amount of kilograms, you multiply by 2.2 to get an approximate number of pounds). Multiplying 4.44 by 2.2 gives you the product of 9.77, which rounded up is 10:
    10 lbs = 4,540 g = 4.44 kg.

    As you can see, shearing off decimal places for these conversions really does make the results approximations. It's important to keep that in mind.

Friday, December 20, 2013

How to Create a Simple Table in Microsoft Word

Tables present complex information in an easy-to-read format. You can insert text, numbers and graphics in tables. These instructions work for Microsoft Word 97 or 98.

Instructions

    1

    Go to the Table menu and select Insert Table. The Insert Table window opens.

    2

    Select the number of rows and columns you want in your table.

    3

    Select the column width (up to 22 inches) or choose Auto to have the column width adjust automatically, making the table extend across the width of the page.

    4

    Select the AutoFormat button to select one of Word's preformatted table styles. The Table AutoFormat window opens.

    5

    Click one of the styles in the Formats box in the upper-left side of the window.

    6

    Preview each format, after selecting it, in the Preview box in the upper-right side of the window.

    7

    To customize a preselected format, select or deselect the borders, shading, font, color, heading rows, first column, last row and last column boxes.

    8

    Select AutoFit, and Word will automatically fit the table to your page.

The Best Finish for Outdoor Furniture

The Best Finish for Outdoor Furniture

Outdoor furniture can turn your backyard from a garden into a functional, outdoor room, where you and your family can spend hours of quality time. The right furniture for your yard should be both attractive and comfortable. Because outdoor furniture is constantly exposed to the elements, it is important to coat it with a protective finish. The best finish for your outdoor furniture depends not only on the look you are after, but also the amount of periodic maintenance you are willing to perform. Does this Spark an idea?

Oil-Based Transparent Stains

    For finishing a quality piece of wood furniture, many people prefer the look and feel of an oil-based, transparent wood stain. A transparent stain provides color to the wood, but the wood's natural grain will remain completely revealed. As opposed to a paint, which lays on the wood's surface, a transparent stain is intended to penetrate into the wood's surface.

    Prior to finishing with a transparent stain, your wood furniture should be entirely free of any existing coatings. You may have to sand or use a chemical stripper in order to achieve the desired conditions prior to staining. In addition, wood must be completely dry prior to staining; any moisture contained within the wood may prevent the stain from penetrating the surface adequately. An oil-based wood stain that does not penetrate, and sits on the wood's surface, will remain tacky, will tend to attract dirt and pollen and could stain clothing. When applying oil-based stain, make sure the stain soaks into the wood. Back-brushing, or going back over the surface of the wood to remove any excess stain, after 15 minutes is an effective way to avoid overapplying oil-based wood stain.

    Transparent oil-based stains provide water protection, as well as protection from the sun's harmful rays. Keep in mind that the UV protection in wood stain comes from the pigments, so the darker color you choose, the longer you can expect a stain to last. Generally, a transparent wood stain will last between one to three years before it needs to be refinished. The lifespan varies greatly depending on the exposure to sunlight.

    Also, it is important to understand that, when using a transparent wood stain, the finish can vary greatly depending on the absorbency and color of the wood. Wood is a natural substrate, and transparent finishes will reveal the inconsistencies and natural deformations inherent within wood. This can create a beautiful, breath-taking finish, but if you are expecting a consistent finish, it can be quite a shock. Go with a solid-color product if consistency is your goal.

Semitransparent Oil-Based Wood Stain

    A semitransparent wood stain is similar to the transparent stain in many ways. The primary difference between the two is that the pigment particles in the semitransparent stains are larger and obscure the wood grain pattern more than those in the transparent stain. Similar to the transparent stain, you will want to avoid overapplying the semitransparent wood stains. Also, the darker colors will tend to last longer than the lighter ones.

    You can expect a semitransparent stain to last between two and four years before the furniture needs to be refinished.

Solid Color Stain or Paint

    A solid color stain essentially performs similarly to a traditional, opaque paint. In fact, prior to applying a solid color wood stain, it is typically recommended that you first apply a primer in order to create a surface with which the solid color stain will bond. Then, after the priming, apply two coats of solid color stain in order to ensure maximum protection and a consistent finish.

    A solid color product will completely obscure the wood's natural grain, but it provides a long-lasting and protective finish. Also, if you are finishing weather damaged furniture, furniture with a coating that could not be completely removed or furniture constructed of lower-grade lumber, a solid color product may be your best choice.

    You can expect a solid color finish to last at least five years or longer. Again, harmful UV rays are the nemesis of all coatings, so the more you are able to keep your furniture out of the sunlight, the longer you can expect your furniture's finish to remain intact.

Thursday, December 19, 2013

How to Decorate TV Trays as Side Tables

How to Decorate TV Trays as Side Tables

Side tables can be a real lifesaver when it comes to living and decor. Side table do more than just display collectibles or framed photos. They give you a place to rest a drink or book, or give you a free space to put a lamp and bestow much-needed illumination in the room. If your home is lacking in side tables, there's no reason you have to run and buy some. In fact, you can convert perfectly functional TV trays into trendy looking side or accent tables in an afternoon. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Spray the wooden TV tray with an all-purpose cleanser and wipe it down. Run a 100-grit sanding block down the surface area of the table. Repeat with a 220-grit sanding block.

    2

    Wipe down the table with a tack cloth to remove the dust leftover from sanding. Hold a can of oil-based spray on primer 10 inches from the surface of the table and cover the top with a light coat. Allow it to dry overnight.

    3

    Spray the top of the table with an oil-based spray paint in the color of your choice. Allow it to dry for around 12 hours.

    4

    Attach decorative stencils of your choice around the top of the table and tape them in place with painter's tape. Spray the stencils with another color of oil-based spray paint.

    5

    Remove the stencils and allow the table top to dry. As it dries, measure the height of the table and add 2 inches to it. Measure the length of each side of the table.

    6

    Cut four pieces of fabric, each piece as wide as a respective side of the table. The length of each piece should be the measurement you took in step five.

    7

    Give each piece of fabric a simple 1 inch hem with a sewing machine. Flip the table over so it is upside down. Lay the top of each piece of fabric against its respective side, lining up the edges of the fabric with the edges of the table. Use the staple gun to attach them in place, making an even line of staples.

    8

    Flip the tray over. The fabric will cover the tell-tale folding legs of the tray, making it look like an accent table.

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

How to Make an Outdoor Bar Table From Reclaimed Lumber

How to Make an Outdoor Bar Table From Reclaimed Lumber

Using reclaimed lumber to build an outdoor table bar guarantees that the final product will be unique and have a rustic charm. This bar is tall enough to stand at and serve at parties, and can also be sat around like a table using high stools. The key when building with reclaimed wood is to provide enough structural support underneath the lumber so the aged wood does not bear stresses it cannot handle. This is easily accomplished by building a wood frame from 2-by-4s and attaching the reclaimed wood to the outside of the frame. The wood should be treated with waterproofing sealant and galvanized screws should be used. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Arrange two 48-inch treated 2-by-4 boards on the ground, parallel to each other with their largest sides facing the ground. Space them about 4 feet apart. Set another pair of identical boards on top of them, perpendicular to them so that their corners overlap and the four boards form a perfect square frame that measures 48 inches on a side.

    2

    Drill four holes into each overlapping corner of the boards. Set 2 1/2-inch galvanized wood screws in the holes and drill them into place, securing the four boards together into a frame. Repeat with four identical boards to make an identical second square frame.

    3

    Stand the two identical frames upright and parallel to each other with the help of an assistant. Place them about 18 inches apart. Position 18-inch treated 2-by-4 boards between the frame boards at each corner, with their largest surfaces flush with the outside edge of the frame board.

    4

    Drill two holes through the frame and into each end of each short support board. Set 5-inch galvanized screws in each hole and tightly screw them in place to attach the frame together.

    5

    Repeat the installation process of the short support boards to add short support boards and the middle point of each frame side, so that there are a total of eight short support boards attached to the frame. Space them evenly so there is one in each corner and one on each side at the midpoint.

    6

    Cut reclaimed boards to fit across the outside of the table bar frame. Position each board against the frame and drill holes through the reclaimed wood and into the frame. Set 2 1/2-inch galvanized screws in the holes and tighten the screws to attach the reclaimed wood. Continue to install the reclaimed wood in this fashion until the entire frame is covered except the top.

    7

    Find a piece of reclaimed wood that is larger than the table bar frame top and at least 1 inch thick. Cut it to fit and set it on top of the table bar frame. Drill holes up through the frame and into the reclaimed wood that will be the table bar top. Screw 2 1/2-inch galvanized wood screws up and into the table bar top.

    8

    Sand the exterior surface of the reclaimed wood. Then wipe it with a tack cloth to remove any dirt and dust. Apply a thin coat of sealant to the reclaimed wood using smooth, even strokes that follow the grain of the reclaimed wood. Allow two hours for the sealant to dry. Apply a second coat in the same manner.

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

Outdoor Centerpiece Ideas

Outdoor Centerpiece Ideas

As the weather warms, outdoor entertaining season kicks into gear. Centerpieces finish your dining decor, but there are special considerations outside. Wind and heat can wreak havoc on candle or flower arrangements. The same centerpieces that look fine indoors may be too overpowering or out of place on an outdoor dining set. Choosing elegant yet casual centerpieces specifically for the patio is necessary. Does this Spark an idea?

Garden Ideas

    Instead of the traditional flower arrangement, use bounty from the garden--or your grocery store--as a centerpiece. Fill an earthenware bowl to overflowing with lemons, limes or oranges. Mix and match fruit to match your color scheme, or choose a single fruit. Vegetables such as tomatoes also make a good centerpiece filler. Use green or red tomatoes, depending on the time of the year.

    Fill a clear glass bowl with water. Arrange two to three lemons or limes in the bottom of the bowl underwater. Float slices of lemons and limes on the surface with floating candles that mimic the fruit interspersed among them.

Flower Ideas

    Potted flowers survive outdoor heat much better than cut blooms. Set a small potted arrangement inside vintage bowls or dishes to dress up their usual containers. Arrange herbs in small terracotta pots on top of a pillar candelabra. The spikes that hold the candles in place can be removed with wire snips if they don't fit inside the pots' drainage holes.

    Fill a clear glass pitcher 2/3 full with water. Cut the stem from a large artificial flower. Glue fishing weights inside the petals so they are hidden. Sink the flower inside the water. Arrange floating candles on the surface.

Candle Ideas

    Pillar candles and other styles of centerpieces where the flame is unguarded are dangerous outside if there is a breeze. Solve this with votive holders and other candle arrangements that offer protection from the wind.

    Create a nautical-themed candle arrangement. Choose a votive holder slightly shorter than the fishbowl and place it inside. Fill the space between them with sand, shells and dried starfish and sand dollars.

    Combine candles and flowers. Place votive candles into tall glass vases. Place the stem of an artificial flower, such as a dahlia, against the side of the vase with the bloom facing out. Tie a brightly colored ribbon or length of raffia around the stem and vase to secure. Cluster several flower votive candles in the center of the table with the blooms facing outward.

Monday, December 16, 2013

How to Make a Stained Glass Tabletop

How to Make a Stained Glass Tabletop

Making a stained glass tabletop is easier than creating traditional stained glass, in which lead is placed between the cut glass and then soldered into place. Because lead is not safe around children, pets or food, grout can be used to make stained glass tables. This also remedies the problem of sagging that would occur with a soldered stained glass design. Stained glass tabletops transform simple tables into exceptional accent pieces for a home.

Instructions

    1

    Measure and cut the heavy paper to the same dimensions as the table's top.

    2

    Draw the design pattern onto the heavy paper. For design ideas, use mosaic and stained glass patterns for inspiration (see Resource).

    3

    Measure and cut the stained glass to fit onto the drawn design. Be sure to wear safety glasses. Lay the pieces on top of the design as you cut the glass and space the pieces approximately 1/4 inch apart.

    4

    Apply a thin layer of tile adhesive to a small section of the table's surface and begin placing the glass in the same pattern as on the paper. Use the design pattern as a reference.

    5

    Continue applying more tile adhesive as needed until the entire stained glass pattern as been placed on the table surface. Allow the adhesive dry before proceeding to the next step.

    6

    Use a trowel to apply the grout over the entire table surface. Be sure to fill in all the areas between the stained glass pieces.

    7

    Wait about 30 minutes until the grout's appearance becomes cloudy. Dampen the sponge with water and wipe away the excess grout. Allow the grout to dry completely, about 1 to 2 days.

    8

    Apply a coat of grout sealant and let it dry. Apply a second coat. This sealant protects the grout from staining.

Sunday, December 15, 2013

How to Decorate With Round Tables

How to Decorate With Round Tables

Round is the symbol of infinity, never stopping. A round table is the most intimate table in the dining room, creates instant focal points in rectangular and square rooms, and protects your legs from bruising from sharp corners when you inevitably run into them. Round tables complement any room and any decor, so compare round tables when shopping for furniture. Look for wood and metal, glass, even acrylic round tables. Round tables take up more floor space, so use in areas with ample room. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Welcome guests into your home with a round table in the foyer. Illuminate with a table lamp, coupled with a bowl to catch keys and change. Don't forget to protect the surface with a placemat or affix felt pads to the underside of your decorative items. A round protector will allow more usable surface of the table, so avoid a square or rectangular one. Complete the foyer with an round or oval mirror to reinforce the roundness of the table.

    2

    In the living room, place a round rug on the floor and center a round coffee table on top. Throw a couple of throw pillows on the sofa and loveseat. Disperse a round bowl and vase around the room.

    3

    On the dining room table, use round placemats so they will fit close to the edge and allow more space in the middle. Use round chargers on top and then a square plate on top of the charger, the corner of the plate will create points on the charger. Layer a smaller round plate on top of the square one. In the center of the table, place a rectangular center piece that will create corners on the table and complement the square plates. Use square napkin rings for the third square item on the table. Don't forget a chandelier centered over the table. Look for one with a round shade.

    4

    The bed is already rectangular, so break up the corners and use round nightstands. Instead of table lamps, hang wall sconces with round shades over the nightstands. Throw a round pillow in the center of the bed. Install a round chandelier in the center of the room.

Saturday, December 14, 2013

DIY Rustic Outdoor Furniture

Outdoor furniture can allow you to enjoy your yard while still remaining comfortable. However, a lot of outdoor furniture supplied by major retailers is expensive. Plus, many of these pieces are highly finished, lacking the rough-hewn qualities of traditional cottage style items. You can recapture the past by making your own outdoor furniture. The real surprise is how available the material may be and how simple it is to put the furniture together. You do not have to be a master carpenter, only be willing to scrounge for natural solutions for your furnishing needs. Does this Spark an idea?

The Recliner

    Everyone needs a place to kick back. Having room to stretch out and take a nap can turn an outdoor area into a lovely place to lounge or snuggle. One way to put together a rustic love seat is through woodcraft. The base can be composed of a large planed stump. The back and arm rest can be crafted with stout, dry vines that are nailed in place. To soften the sitting area, use down filled cushions. You will be surprised at how comfortable and cozy this arrangement can be.

End Tables

    A small end table is probably one of the easiest pieces of rustic furniture to build. Drill holes into the bottom of a flat piece of driftwood. Align these holes with brackets attached to two, wide based legs. Use high quality wood screws to secure the legs to the table surface. This table will work well in both indoor and outdoor settings. Depending on the piece of driftwood you use, these pieces can also stand out for their gorgeous appearance. Remember, however, the legs must be checked for level once attached to the underside of the table. Because driftwood tends to be irregularly shaped, you may need to saw down a little on the legs once they are attached. Make sure the legs are long enough when initially installed to leave length enough for this.

Ottomans

    You do not exactly build rustic ottomans, so much as discover them. Large pine knots can serve well as a place to prop your feet after a long day outdoors. Also, pieces of elaborately twisted driftwood and large mossy stones work well in your sylvan design scheme. The main thing to be cautious of is anything that might lead to injury. Wood easily splinters and stone is prone to cut. Make sure the rock edges are rounded off and that the wood is sanded down. Some furniture builders might even opt for a coat of varnish.

Friday, December 13, 2013

What Colors Go With Chocolate-Brown Furniture?

What Colors Go With Chocolate-Brown Furniture?

Many colors work well with chocolate-brown furniture, because to create brown you must mix many colors together. This offers you a great deal of flexibility when you're decorating; because most colors blend well with brown, a neutral color, you can concentrate as much on your sense of style as you do on the accent colors to go with your chocolate brown furniture. Does this Spark an idea?

Pink

    In color psychology, pink exudes calmness while brown promotes stability. As such, these colors complement each other well. Use your chocolate brown furniture as a visual anchor for pink accessories like a fleur-de-lis patterned wallpaper. Extend the pattern on your wallpaper to your couch or bed by adding pillows with the same pattern on it. In a child's bedroom, paint dollops of pink ice cream on top of chocolate cones on the doors of a closet or above the window to add a decorative element. Make a visual tie between the two colors by selecting accessories that have both colors in them.

Blue

    A chocolate brown and blue color combination finds favor among people who like to mix warm and cool colors together in their decorating schemes, and decorating styles from Moroccan to Southwestern embrace color schemes that bring brown and blue together. To bring this color combination into your space, paint your walls a dusty Southwestern blue and hanging up brown ceramic Kokopelli dancers on the wall. Throw an afghan of robin egg blue onto the back of your couch or reading chair. Paint the shelves of your bookcase blue. Add blue stenciling to your painted chocolate brown furniture.

Yellow and Red

    Color combinations featuring yellow, red and chocolate-brown appeal to people who love warm fall colors. Make the most of these colors by choosing accent pieces that bring texture into the room. Push an ottoman that's upholstered with a red, yellow and chocolate-brown brocade fabric up to your couch. Lay down a satiny yellow and red table runner on your painted chocolate-brown kitchen table to dress it up. Hang linen curtains with red, yellow and brown autumn leaves on the window; use a large branch that you've painted red or yellow as a curtain rod.

Green

    Chocolate-brown and green together evoke the richness of a caramel-covered green apple. Use your decorative accents to incorporate this color combination into your room. Add a wreath made of ivy leaves, pine cones and chocolate-brown ribbon to the wall. Hang sepia-toned pictures with chocolate brown mats on a mint-green accent wall. Paint a tree mural on the wall of your baby's room; give the tree a chocolate-brown trunk, dark green leaves and light green apples. A lamp with a hunter-green shade and chocolate-brown base sheds some additional light on a reading area.

How to Build an Outdoor Tile Tabletop

How to Build an Outdoor Tile Tabletop

Tile is an ideal covering for an outdoor tabletop as it is weatherproof, hard-wearing and easy to wash with soapy water. A tile tabletop gives new life to an old table, can be customized with your choice of tile and tile layout, and is an achievable DIY project--even for tiling novices. Get creative and make a mosaic, or stick with a simple column-and-row arrangement---the method is basically the same no matter your design. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Cover your tabletop with tiles and rearrange them until you are happy with the design. Leave narrow gaps between the tiles for grouting. Determine whether you need to cut any tiles to fit the tabletop and cut them to size with a tile cutter. Smooth rough-cut edges with a tile file.

    2

    Take a photo of the tabletop with a digital camera so that you can refer to it when laying the tile, or draw around the tiles with a pencil directly on the wood so that you can follow the outlines when laying the tile.

    3

    Paint a coat of wood primer over the tabletop with a paintbrush (refer to the manufacturer's instructions). Allow this coat to dry, then apply a second coat of primer.

    4

    Mix up the tile adhesive, following the manufacturer's instructions. Use a flexible knife to spread an even layer of tile adhesive over the back of each tile before pressing it into position, one at a time. Refer to your digital photograph or pencil lines for the layout. Allow the tile adhesive to dry for up to 24 hours, or the time recommended by the manufacturer.

    5

    Mix the tile grout, following the manufacturer's instructions. Apply the grout to all the gaps between the tiles with your fingers, working it into the gaps. Use an old dishwashing brush to scrub the surface and further work the grout into the gaps.

    6

    Wipe the excess grout from the tiles, using a damp cloth. Do this before the grout dries.

How to Build a Half Moon Table

How to Build a Half Moon Table

A half-moon table, also known as a half-round, is a great multi-functional table used to break up a long hallway or in spaces where square footage is at a premium. Available in many styles and shapes, a half-moon table can co-exist with any decor from Shaker to Queen Anne. It can be a complex piece to make, consisting of a curved design, or it can be made quite simply, by creating a triangular base and carving a slab of wood in a semi-circular shape to set on top. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Measure the area in which the table will set to get the proper dimensions. The table should be no higher than 45 inches. Most have 30 inch legs, with the top measuring 36 inches wide by 18 inches deep.

    2

    Measure the wood slab 36 inches long and 18 inches wide. Draw a semi-circle connecting these measurements and cut with a table saw.

    3

    Cut pieces of the 1-by-4 inch wood to form a triangle base for the slab. The front of the table should have a 90 degree cut, forming the top of the triangle. The two other pieces should be cut at a 45 degree angle to form a right isosceles triangle. Screw these pieces together.

    4

    Position a leg in each of the three corners and screw the leg to the base.

    5

    Add a piece of beveled wood in front of each leg to form a brace which will join the panels together.

    6

    Lay the half-round slab on the floor, right side down. Lay the base on top of the slab with the legs in the air. Center the base and mark the underside of the slab.

    7

    Remove the base and add carpenter's glue to all edges that will come into contact with the slab. Position the top carefully, lining it up with the markings.

    8

    Add one finishing screw through the top and into each leg. Counter sink the screws. Fill all the holes with wood putty and finish the piece with a final sanding. Then stain or paint.

Thursday, December 12, 2013

How to Make a Parsons Table

With its clean lines and simple design, the Parsons table has become a timeless piece of furniture. Attributed to Jean-Michel Frank from New York's Parsons School of Design, this table was first introduced in the 1920s. Add style to any room by making a Parsons table.

Instructions

    1

    Cut a 30 by 20-inch piece of -inch thick medium-density fiberboard (MDF) for the table top. Next, cut three inch-wide pieces of MDF, two 20-inches long and two 30-inches long, being sure to miter the ends. These will be used as the rails on the sides of the table to give the illusion of a very thick top without the weight.

    2

    Use -inch thick poplar boards for the legs, cutting them to 19 inches in length for a coffee table height. Cut a total of 12 pieces, or 3 pieces for each leg. These will be the cores of the legs.

    3

    Align 3 pieces of the wood together and apply a thin layer of wood glue. Put in 1 -inch nails to help secure.

    4

    Cut the frame of the legs out of MDF or plywood 16-inches long. Two should be 3-inches wide and the other two should be 2 -inches wide, making pieces for each leg, or 16 pieces total. Attach these to the leg cores with glue and then nail. There should be 3 inches of leg core above this frame.

    5

    Glue the two shorter pieces of rail to two of the leg cores, then nail. Make sure they are flush and then left to dry. Attach the longer sides of rail once the glue has set for the shorter sides in the same manner and let dry.

    6

    Attach the table top to the frame with glue. Use finishing nails to be sure it is secure. Make the edges flush with the rails by using a flush trimming bit on a router. Allow glue to dry.

    7

    Touch up any nail holes and imperfections with wood filler and let dry. Sand the table, prime and paint any color desired.

Weight Conversion From Standard to Metric

Weight Conversion From Standard to Metric

The metric system is a system of measurements based on units of 10. It is also called the International System of Units, abbreviated as SI. The standardization of the metric system was adopted through the Treaty of the Meter in 1875 in Paris, France. The SI is maintained by the International Bureau of Weights and Measures in Paris. It is updated when necessary by an international conference.

From Ounces to Grams

    Grams are very small units of weight. For example, an average ballpoint pen cap weighs about one gram. Ounces are much larger than grams, with one ounce equal to about 28 grams. Convert from ounces to grams by multiplying the number of ounces by 28.35 to get the number of grams.

From Pounds to Kilograms

    A single kilogram weighs about twice as much as a single pound. Convert from pounds to kilograms by multiplying the number of pounds by 0.454 to get the number of kilograms.

From Tons to Megagrams

    Megagrams and tons are very large units of weight used to measure heavy things like cars, ships or bulk goods. A single ton is roughly ten percent heavier than a single megagram. Convert from tons to megagrams by multiplying the number of tons by 0.907 to find the number of megagrams.

Metric Weight Measurements Compared

    There are 1000 grams in a kilogram, and 1000 kilograms in a megagram. Megagrams are also referred to as tonnes.

Tuesday, December 10, 2013

How to Design a Dinner Table

How to Design a Dinner Table

When you entertain or host family holiday celebrations, you pay a great deal of attention to the way you set your table. But how prepared would you be for the boss to arrive for a surprise dinner? How much thought do you give to everyday meals? If you collect with a plan and keep a few simple concepts in mind, you can design a dinner table that looks perfectly lovely and appropriate for every situation. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1
    Collect formal, informal and seasonal linens.

    Take stock of what you have and determine the elements, or parts, of your design You probably have sets of "good china" and everyday stoneware. Get a couple of pieces of each out and spread out the linens you have. If your good china is an Imari or brightly patterned china, you should have several tablecloths in a plain color that picks up a color in the dish. If your good china is a fine or pastel pattern, stick with white, ecru and lace, picking up the ground color of the china on the cloth or details in the embroidery on cutwork. Have tablecloths in sizes to fit your table at its smallest size and with extension leaves. As for napkins, white or ecru napkins are generally used for more formal settings. Always use a plain-colored napkin with a patterned cloth if you don't have matching napkins. Find lively no-iron linens for informal use. Formal table linens should have an 8- to 10-inch "drop" over the edge of the table on all sides, informal linens about 4 inches.

    2
    Put lights on your table, not just over it, to focus on the dinner.

    Decide on your table lights. You may have received silver or crystal candelabra or candlesticks as gifts or heirlooms. Match your lights to the space they'll fill. Candles should stand one and a half to two times the height of their base. Silver candelabra only fit the scale of large (102 to 120-inch) tables but can be used to dramatic effect on sideboards and buffets. Brass and crystal are adaptable to formal or informal tables. Use white candles for very formal tables and colored candles for informal or seasonal tables. Crystal hurricanes and glass-shaded candles can be used for either late-night formal or very informal summer night suppers. Buy a box of white or ivory candles to have on hand, and buy a box of colors to match each set of dishes you own.

    3
    A good selection of flatware allows you to dress up or down.

    You should have a set of matching stainless flatware and perhaps a set of silver or silver-plate flatware. If not, start collecting or hinting. A good set of stainless can be used in a formal setting if it's a classic pattern that is in harmony with your china. Antique silver serving pieces add charm to dinner parties and meaning to family holiday tables.

    4
    Specialty dishes add interest and a theme to your design.

    Special dishes or accent pieces can be used to spruce up a seasonal table. Place mats establish an informal setting, but these seasonal dishes can be dressed up with the right linen, flatware and glassware.

    5
    Water glasses and after-dinner glasses flank basic wine stems.

    Choose glasses for your table to complement your dishes. If you can't afford matching crystal, start off with plain, good-quality glasses that mirror the color or design of your dishes. Collect pressed or cut-glass water goblets at flea markets; find dramatic, inexpensive glassware to complement the style of dishes. In addition to water glasses or goblets, you'll need a set of general-purpose wine glasses. Globe-shaped wine stems are dramatic for red wine, and tall, narrow stems are traditional for champagne or other sparkling wines.

    6
    This brilliant Imari needs no tablecloth to look elegant.

    Once you have all the parts, balance your design. Only one item--linens, dishes, silver--can be the star. Everything else needs to look right with the style-setting element. If you want to match everything, that's fine, but the days of rigid rules about using matching patterns of everything have gone the way of the furniture suite. The point is now, as it was in great grandmother's day, to collect heirlooms or things you love as you go along and use them together to set a harmonious table that welcomes your guests and reflects your personality as well as the occasion.

    7
    The flowers on the left are too tall for the table--better for the sideboard or buffet.

    Finish your design with a centerpiece that may or may not be removed for dinner and returned for dessert, depending on the size of your table. Build it lower than the eye level of your seated guests. If you are using candlesticks or candlabra, the candles should start higher than the flowers and be set far enough away that they don't singe the petals as they burn down. Space your center arrangement out so that it takes no more than one- third of the center section of the table. You need space to set dishes, and your guests need room for their bread plates. Invest in a "candle snuffer" to extinguish candles. This will keep well-intentioned helpers from spattering hot wax on your linens.

How to Build a Tilt Top Drawing Table

Sketching can be a fun and relaxing hobby for practitioners of all skill levels. But hours of drawing hunched over a flat table is a quick road to back pain, and your hand or body can block the light you need to focus on your work. An easy fix is to use a tilt top drawing table, slanted so that you can comfortably sit upright as you work. You could spend dozens or hundreds of dollars on a ready-made table, but a cheaper and relatively simple solution is to build your own. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

    1

    Prop up a clipboard at varying angles until you find the slant that is most comfortable for you. Measure the angle of the clipboard with your protractor. With your elbow protruded at its typical angle when drawing, measure from the tip of the elbow to the center of your chest, then double that measurement -- the table surface should be wide enough you can rest your elbow on it while you work. Measure the vertical distance from the floor to your belly button while you sit at a comfortable height -- that measurement will be the height of the bottom edge of the drawing table surface.

    2

    Take out a graph pad and decide on a ratio of real measurement units to graph squares. Take your vertical measurement of the ground to your belly button and divide it by the conversion ratio to obtain a graphed vertical value. Trace a horizontal line near the bottom of the page. Starting from that horizontal line, trace a vertical line upwards to the length of the graphed vertical value. The top point of the vertical line represents the bottom lip of the table. Reproduce the slant of your clipboard, drawing a straight line reflecting that angle from the top point of the vertical line to the edge of the page. Measure out a distance that will translate to a desirable real-life length for the table surface and erase the remainder -- that is the side view of your table top. Draw two pairs of vertical lines, equidistant from each other, coming from the bottom of the table surface to the ground line. Slightly above the ground line, draw another set of parallel horizontal lines representing a stabilizing stud. Draw a front view of the table, reproducing the heights of the ground line, stabilizing stud, low point of the table surface and high point of the table surface. At the ends of the front view stabilizing stud, draw a vertical line to the converted width of two inches. Draw the width of the table slightly wider than your elbow span measurement.

    3

    Convert the measurements of the drawn studs into real-world length -- measure the long sides of the table legs. Pair off the two sets of studs and cut them to the lengths of the leg measurements in your drawing. Pair off a third set of studs and cut them to the length of the side stabilizing studs plus 12 inches. Cut a seventh stud to the length of the stabilizing stud in the front view drawing of the table. Pair off the two back-leg studs and the two front-leg studs, stacking them on top of each other. From the top right corner of each stack, reproduce the slant of the table in pencil. Cut along the lines.

    4

    Lay a long leg and a short leg side by side, their square ends even and their slanted ends facing in the same direction, and set a stabilizing stud flat atop them at the height prescribed in the side view drawing. Nail the stabilizing stud in place with four nails into each leg. Do the same for the other long and short leg, except with the slants facing in the opposite direction. Set up the two leg pairs with the stabilizers to the inside. Center the final stabilizer between the two side studs with its narrow edge on top; attach it to the side with four nails at each end, driven through the side pieces into the ends of the middle board. The array of legs and stabilizers should look like an "H" if viewed from the top.

    5

    Cut your plywood board to the prescribed length and width based on the drawings. Nail the 1-by-1 board at regular intervals along the bottom edge of the table, as a lip on which to rest pens and pencils. Lay the plywood piece flat along the slants of the now-upright legs and nail it into place. Sand the top and edges of the table in tight, circular motions until the surface is smooth to the touch.